1. Leipzig-->Berlin-->Oslo-->Tromso-->Kilpisjarvi At 07:30 we set out from Leipzig, and by 18:00 we were in Tromso. Not knowing what to expect, Tromso was much more vibrant than I had imagined it would be. John, our collaborator, had arrived a few days before, and had already located a Doner shop for dinner. After that we headed up the cable car, and on to the top of the fell across the inlet from the city. We were greeted with a spectacular sight at 01:00. The doner was mediocre, but the view was spectacular. A wonderful introduction to the arctic. The next morning we hopped on a bus at 07:00 bound for Kilpisjarvi. Along the way we saw many incredible sights. The place was already leaving an everlasting impression. Once in Kilpisjarvi, we were greeted by Leena, who was most hospitable. It was hard to not want to just set out into the back country wildly unprepared. The landscape seemed to be calling. Having studied Oron's work on the wreckage of the Ju88, I was keen to get out there and see it for myself. So that is precisely what we did. At 01:00, naturally. With a bit of historical contextualization form our lovely housemates, the wreckage and what it represents, sent me on a completely new and unexpected course in my work. In only 60 hours, Kilpisjarvi had already managed to affect what I do, and how I do it. Such is the power of the landscape, the people, and the stories. Part #2 will come tomorrow. Pictures of Saana, more of the wreck, and some of the creatures that dwell in the yard between the house and the lake.